These two islands – the latter subject to ongoing contention with Japan – mark Korea’s easternmost point. Formed by volcanic activitiy some 2.5 million years ago, the two rugged outposts poke above the seas between the Korean Peninsula and Japan. This body of water is itself contentious: known by Koreans as ‘the East Sea’, and Japanese as ‘Sea of Japan’. Although Ulleung-do is undisputed, Dokdo (consisting of two tiny islands with no infrastructure, home only to a rotating population of no more than 2 dozen fishermen, scientists, and security personnel) remains bitterly, but peacefully, contested. Visiting the island has thus become something of a rite of passage for proud Koreans; international visitors however may find the experience slightly curious. As there is no infrastructure on Dokdo it is visited via restricted day-trips from Ulleungdo. Ulleungdo itself, much larger and home to a population of around 10,000, is ruggedly beautiful - if windswept cliffs and dramatic coastline are your thing! Tourist infrastructure is limited to simple local guesthouses, but the adventurous will be rewarded with excellent hiking trails, placid beaches, and gaining an insight into a traditional Korean island life a world away from the bright lights of Seoul.