Malji Ka Kamra certainly is striking. The wedding cake-like structure of tiers and domes is painted a vibrant turquois blue, its ornamental frescos providing a fine introduction to Shekhawati’s ‘open air art gallery’. The century-old haveli is located in the centre of Churu, an unhurried, easy-going town and fine base for exploring the wider area. Rooms are spacious, well-equipped, characterful, and most feature large balconies overlooking the gardens and beyond. The finest traditions of Marwari cooking are celebrated in the onsite restaurant, with dining to be enjoyed indoors or, on warm nights, under the stars in the courtyard gardens.