Idyllic Kovalam, once a string of villages scattered around a line of rocky coves, is Kerala’s busiest beach destination. After experiencing an early backpacker-led boom in the 90s, the bustling Hawah and Lighthouse beaches are now a major draw for both domestic and international holidaymakers. Back from the beaches are a string of low-key guesthouses and fresh seafood restaurants: pick your catch, discuss cooking options, and negotiate a price! Retreating north and south of the main beaches one finds the more upmarket accommodation options, many of which occupy stunning cliffside locations leading down to pristine private beaches.

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